7 Easy Steps of Sump Pump Installation: A Comprehensive Guide

If you’ve got a can-do attitude and the necessary know-how, you can follow these 7 steps to install your new sump pump system.

But remember, sump pump installation is not easy. We strongly encourage you not to DIY. Not only does it involve excavation, but it can end in disaster if not done carefully. Further down, we explain why.

Instead, call a professional to do it for you. At Foundation Recovery Systems, we install sump pumps the right way and prioritize your safety. It will also save you time: for you, this process could take an entire week, but we do most installations in just a day.

For a free inspection and guidance on sump pump installation, call us today!

A sump pump is a basement waterproofing system that protects your basement from flooding.

It takes in water from the soil beneath your home and from your basement’s interior drainage system. It then moves that water out of your home and away from your foundation where it can’t do it any harm.

It doesn’t matter how water gets into your basement—whether from rain, burst pipes, or leaks through basement wall cracks. If it’s in there, it’s a big problem. A sump pump is the solution.

Submersible pumps are our top recommendation for a sump pump type. They are designed to sit within the sump basin (AKA the “sump pit”) and as level with the basement floor as possible. This design means the pump is out of the way, quieter, and situated in such a way that the pump doesn’t have to fight gravity as much when in operation.

If you want a quiet pump with excellent flood protection, a submersible pump is your best option.

A back-up sump pump (AKA a “combination pump”) is a type of centrifugal pump that provides an extra layer of protection. It can come either as a submersible or a pedestal pump, but it’s main difference is that it features 2 or more pumps all working together. At Foundation Recovery Systems, our AquaStop™ Basement Triple has 3 pumps for unparalleled protection: a primary SafeDri™ 1/3 hp pump, a secondary SafeDri™ 1/2 hp pump which activates if the primary pump is overwhelmed or fails, and a third battery back-up pump. 

A good sump pump will have all or most of the following parts:

• An alarm notifies you if your pump fails to turn on in the midst of a storm or flood.
• A secondary pump kicks into gear if the primary one fails or becomes overloaded.
• A battery back-up keeps the pump running if your power goes out.
• A check valve keeps water from flowing back into your basement after cycling through your pump.
• A sump liner keeps the inner workings of your sump pump’s electrical components dry.
• An airtight lid seals in unpleasant smells and additional humidity.
• A sump stand lifts your pump above an debris that could damage pump. 
• An insulated discharge line stops the water from freezing in cold weather.

First, you need to excavate a place in your basement floor where your sump pump will go (ie. the “sump pit”). It should be in the lowest area of your basement (usually in the cove joint) where it can collect the most water. If you put it anywhere else, it won’t work.

Need help placing it? call a basement waterproofing specialist to help you. If the sump can’t fit in the lowest spot, run a PVC feed line from there, down through the floor, to your pump.

Once the best place is determined, it’s time to break out the jack-hammer.

We highly recommend installing an interior drainage system like our own BasementGutter™ to take in water from the surrounding soil. This reduces the likelihood of damage from hydrostatic pressure.

Be warned: this will require more excavation. Again, you’ll have to use a jack-hammer to cut away the floor around the perimeter of the basement. Fill the bottom perimeter with clean stone to let water pass through but catch larger debris. In the case of BasementGutter™, a custom-engineered perimeter drain is installed on top of the stone and then backfill it in more.

Plug in your pump to a dedicated outlet and connect the perimeter drain to the sump pump. Backfill the sump pit with more clean stone clean gravel outside of the liner.

Pop on the airtight lid (as an added bonus, this will discourage animals and children from attempting to play in the water) and place rubber grommets around all pipes and wires.

To complete the main effort of sump pump installation, restore the floor with concrete.

Remember: don’t cover over the sump pump. You need to be able to access it for any future maintenance or replacement.

Next, you need to install an exterior discharge line to eject the water out of and away from your home.

It’s important to bury your discharge line so that it doesn’t freeze (we offer additional protection from frozen discharge lines with FreezeGuard™).

Reduce disruption to your landscaping by carefully removing sections of the lawn in whole pieces before making the trench for the pipe. Install the outlet flush with the ground so that you don’t damage it with your lawn mower.

With your pipes installed and your pump in place, apply sealants to any gaps or holes that might allow water to spill out of your system.

After that, it’s clean-up time. Get all the debris and trash out of your basement and into the trash. 

Our sump pump installation crews take extra care with this last part. We leave your basement clean, neat, and clear of debris for you at the end of the installation. Most times, customers comment their basement is cleaner after sump pump installation than it was before. We even like to dust up a little.

• Check the power source to ensure it is connected and live.
• Inspect the sump pit for debris.
• To test your sump pump, pour a bucket of water into the sump pit and observe.
• Listen for any unusual noises.
• Check the outlet pipes for any debris or obstructions.

• Confirm the pump is positioned correctly in the housing. If it tips over, it could jam the float switch.
• Clean the pump as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
• If your pump has a battery back-up, unplug it from the wall, and see if the pump still works.
• Inspect the check valve to ensure it prevents water from re-entering the sump pit.

• Is more than 7 years old.
• Frequently gets stuck or jams.
• Runs continuously, even in dry conditions.
• Makes strange sounds.

• Fails to turn on when water enters the pit.
• Ejection pressure is significantly lower than normal with no other signs of malfunction.
• Is simply falling apart.
• Has rust or other forms of corrosion around vital parts of the pump.

Excavation work on your basement will temporarily weaken it against the surrounding soil. If you don’t support it in the process (or see to it that support is added after the process), your basement wall could collapse.

When that happens, there’s a terrifying chance that a large portion of your home, or even your entire home, could collapse along with it.

That’s why we say call the pros.

That said, if you get something really important wrong, get out of your house immediately. If you sense that there is anything at all that doesn’t look, smell, or sound right, get all occupants out of your house immediately and call a professional.

Even professionals have been seriously injured (and worse) in the process of basement waterproofing.

Please call a professional before you try doing this yourself.

Foundation Recovery Systems offer professional basement waterproofing in Missouri and Northern Illinois. We are ready to help you start and complete your sump pump installation project safely and quickly.

Call us today for a free basement inspection.